4.8.10

The Boroughs Table update




New custom project for my most loyal and best client. This dining room table will be constructed of Musical Grade Claro Walnut layed out in a patchwork formation. Each piece was individually selected from Sam Maloof's former lumber supplier for it's unique qualities. Nearly every type of grain pattern can be found within the intricacies of the top. From curl, to fiddleback, marbled grain to burl, calico colouring of greys and golds, crotch, graftline, vertical grain to flatsawn - and everything in between this will be a beautiful piece.
Assembly will be no joke - getting it to the stage you see above - rough cut only - took an entiure evening. Splined joints at every seam for the most durable possible piece. This will either rest over the bronze legs - or a composite of reclaimed fir and fly ash concrete.
Stay tuned for progress on this, a number of other commissions being produced shortly and an architectural millwork project.

6 comments:

Doug said...

Man, that's nice! This might be a silly question - but, how will you deal with wood movement since you're alternating the grain directions in the different boards?

Doug

Jeffuardo said...

I hadn't considered! I just assumed two splines bin each seam, plus butterfly keys here and there plus the fact that the majority of the end grain is concealed within the structure itself would take care of that. Any suggestions?

Doug said...

That might do it, but I also think there was a reason Mr. Nakashima took such great consideration of seasonal movement. Assuming you're doing something similar to what BDDW does with their patchwork-style walnut tables, I've never seen one from them that didn't have all the grain running the same direction. Also, I think a lot of their detail work that appears to be joined your way, actually consists of different smaller pieces inset into the table tops using a router/chisel. I could be wrong, but that's my guess.

Doug

Jeffuardo said...

Yeah, similar style to BDDW patch tops. I was planning on doing additional patchwork let into this table with a router and chisel as well. Perhaps Though if I make each joint lapped (like two steps overtop of two steps) I can leave the bottom/underside seam on that joint 1/8 inch free from it's mate - then butterfly keys on the undrside to bridge that gap. Then I won't have to clutter the top with further patches. And wood movement has a bit more alottment. Thanks Doug, you know quite a bit about woodworking. Do you have shop space?

Jeffuardo said...

Boom. Got it - I'll make my splines dovetailed shape to hold the joint together, and to a certain extent - constrict movement. Thanks Doug.

Doug said...

I bet that will work...keep us updated!